Gourmands, partyers and aficionados of art and architecture (and shopping) will find no end of riches in the East-meets-West capital of Georgia. Merely a 4-hour flight from Dubai, this is the ideal weekend getaway. Team Scribe’s guide to Georgia is the only guide you’ll need on your adventure.
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What to do?
Old Town
Abanotubani, the old town of Tbilisi, is the central historical landmark of the city. It’s here where King Vaghtang Gorgasali’s falcon fell in hot water during his hunt. The accident led to the discovery of natural sulfur hot springs and, later on, to the establishment of the capital. Known for its snaking lanes, traditional Tbilisi houses, and restaurant-lined Jan Shardeni Street. The hilltop Narikala Fortress and giant Mother of Georgia statue overlook the National Botanical Garden and the stone-domed Sulfur Baths.
Narikala Fortress
Narikala is an ancient fortress overlooking Tbilisi, The fortress consists of two walled sections on a steep hill between the sulfur baths and the botanical gardens of Tbilisi. On the lower court there is the recently restored St Nicholas church.
Metekhi Church
Metekhi Church is one of the oldest churches built in Tbilisi. It is a rather unusual example of a domed Georgian Orthodox church.
Sulfur Baths
Hot sulfur baths have come from the earth for many, many centuries in Tbilisi. The city is built on hot water. Even the name of the city comes from this. ‘Tbili’ in Georgian means ‘warm’. Besides being incredibly relaxing and making you feel toasty on a cold day, sulphur baths are also believed to treat skin problems such as eczema and dry scalp. They are also said to help with arthritic joints, digestion problems and even insomnia. Optional private rooms & massages are available.
The National Gallery
Houses periodical exhibitions of works from Georgia and foreign collections. Heralded for its works by the famous Georgian primitivism painter Niko Pirosmani.
Peace Bridge
The bridge was brought to Georgia from Italy in 200 unassembled components. The bridge is 156 meters long and has more than 10 000 LED bulbs built-in, that are switched on daily 90 minutes before the sunset. The pulsating lights are communicating the message in Morse code; the message says chemical elements from the Mendeleev’s periodic table that make up a human body.
Tsminda Sameba Cathedral
Sameba is the highest church in Georgia. Sameba Cathedral was built with grandiose scope. Its golden dome is practically seen from any point in Tbilisi.
Gallery 27
Gallery 27 is a small boutique with amazing handcrafted souvenirs, that is located in one of the most beautiful houses of the Old town Tbilisi. It is an offshoot of the famous Mais on Bleue house that brought modern and high quality arts and crafts to Georgia in the 90s.
Lado Gudiashvili Square
The buildings in the Square represented the capital’s rich cultural history. One of the houses served as Imperial Russia’s headquarters for Caucasia in the 19th Century.
The Writer’s House
Writer's House of Georgia is an alluring early 20th- century mansion in the Sololaki District of Tbilisi. Originally the residence of famous Georgian businessman Davit Sarajishvili, it served at the epicenter of local bohemian life and witnessed various historical events before opening to the public as a museum complex.
Funicular
A ride on the Funicular to Mtatsminda Park offers panoramic views of the city. The amusement park sits at the top of Mount Mtatsminda; it features different carousels, a roller coaster, a Ferris wheel, water slides and much more. If you feel fancy, you can even have dinner at the Funicular Restaurant and witness a breathtaking vista over an illuminated Tbilisi.
Flea Market on Dry Bridge
This unique flea market bears a fascinating collection of jewelry, antiques, vintage home accessories and Soviet bric-a-brac. Locals used to come here to sell their belongings to make a little cash.
Stalin's Underground Printing House
A nondescript, crumbling house in Georgia’s capital hides a series of tunnels where in 1904, the young communist Joseph Stalin printed magazines, pamphlets, and newspapers calling for the removal of the Tsar. Hidden beneath the house, a printing press—old even by the standards of 1906—was smuggled into Tbilisi in pieces by a network of Bolshevik supporters. For three years, the press clandestinely cranked out thousands of pamphlets written in Georgian, Russian, and Armenian. On the porch, lookouts—mostly women—would ring a bell if police were passing the house, a signal to those below silence the noisy press. A series of tunnels led from the from subterranean room to a nearby well, an escape route in anticipation of raids by Russian officials. By the time Stalin began working at the printing press, he was already robbing banks and running protection rackets to raise money to support the Bolsheviks. Some of that money went toward printing and distributing the materials from the press around the region.
Museum of Fine Arts
A private family collection which includes over 3500 paintings by more than 80 Georgian artists the majority of works dating back from 1945.
Museum of Modern Art
Modern art museum primarily showcasing the work of Zurab Tsereteli, with other temporary exhibits.
Day trip to Chateau Buera for wine tasting
Château Buera is a hub for wine-lovers at Lopota Lake. Although Château Buera, with its contemporary exterior design looks modern from outside, inside it preserves all the ancient traditions of Georgian wine production.
Spa day at Lopota Lake Resort & Spa
Surrounded by breath-taking Caucasus mountains, Lopota Lake is located in the Kakheti region of Eastern Georgia, within 2 hours drive from Tbilisi.
Where to stay?
Rooms Hotel
Forward-thinking entrepreneur Temur Ugulava showcases his unique, avant-garde approach to design at Rooms Hotel Tbilisi with a traditional-meets-contemporary style and a rough-but-sophisticated artisanal interior. Hence, rooms and suites are outfitted with handmade wallpaper, rich wood floors complement claw-foot tubs, and mood lighting underlines it all.
Stamba Hotel
Inspired by the historic architecture of the former publishing house with its high ceilings and exposed brickwork, the interiors of Stamba guestrooms and suites have an industrial-chic aesthetics.
The Biltmore Hotel
The Biltmore Hotel Tbilisi is the highest building in Tbilisi, Georgia. The hotel is located in the historic and cultural center of the Georgian capital on Rustaveli Avenue. Formerly the Soviet era Institute of Marx, Engels, and Lenin the main building has been incorporated into the glass and steel geometric skyscraper.
Wyndham Grand
An iconic location in the heart of the city. Refined accommodation and tourist spots within walking distance.
Tbilisi Marriott
Nestled in a historic building along Rustaveli Avenue, Tbilisi Marriott Hotel provides guests with an enviable vantage point from which to explore Georgia's vibrant capital city. Step into stunning architectural details, such as an atrium-style lobby replete with striking crystal chandeliers.
Where to eat?
Keto & Kote
You’ll definitely need Google Maps to find this spot, but we promise it’s worth the hassle (and the inevitable detour). The restaurant features local touches like corbels and romantic Georgian balconies that would make a Pinterest addict weak at the knees. Tbilisian old-school glamour is rustic at heart – interiors here see wicker chairs and stripped floorboards meet ornate chandeliers and high ceilings. In terms of food, it’s a contemporary take on Georgian traditions.
Lolita
For something a little less traditional, dine at Lolita – the latest addition to Tbilisi’s burgeoning creative scene. Occupying a three-storey gothic building – once home to the country’s most prominent artistic and cultural figures – the upper floors house a bar, lounge and a nightclub, while the restaurant is set within an outdoor courtyard on the ground floor. Here, sip on creative cocktails like the Lolita Punch and munch on international crowd-pleasers from hot dogs and fries to spicy meatballs and couscous while rubbing shoulders with the city’s urban elite.
Fabrika
Fabrika is a multipurpose complex with a number of restaurants, cafes, and bars as well as shops, a ceramics studio, and a hotel. Here you’ll find comforting bowls of ramen at Shio; freshly baked bread, local cheeses, and other small plates at Tone.
Barbarestan
A traditional family restaurant with recipes based on those in legendary writer and chef Barbare Jorjadze’s original cookbook of 19th-century Georgian classics. A real chance to discover forgotten but authentic Georgian food in an interior matched to those times
Café Leila
Leila is charming Vegetarian Café in the heart of Old Tbilisi is often referred to as a haven for vegetarians. The menu features a wide range of authentic Georgian vegetarian dishes as well as a choice of fish and vegan desserts. The beautiful interior is preserved from Soviet times. The Place was built for ART Gallery, then transformed Middle-Eastern sweet shop, loved and well-remembered by many locals.
Lily Vanilli Bakery
The beloved London bakery on Columbia Road has opened up shop overseas and its Georgian counterpart is as equally charming. Made of sugar and spice and all things nice, its interiors are stripped back with pastel-pink French windows separating the shop from the eat-in bakery. While the savoury lunch dishes are top, it’s the sweet stuff we’re really after. Expect all the usual suspects like choux, brownies and eclairs, but be sure to get stuck into more local delicacies; traditional Medok (honey cakes) are layered to perfection and the bakery’s spin on the Georgian apple and sour-cherry pies is not to be missed.
Shavi Lomi
At Shavi Lomi, white-linen cloths and chandeliers are replaced by car-boot-sale furniture and flea-market china, meaning an evening at this inconspicuous little restaurant is an experience akin to eating at your best friend’s house (albeit if they were an award-winning chef). Opened by a local celebrity chef and three of her friends, what was once a secret kept among Tbilisi’s in-the-know has become a culinary hotspot, making its 10 tables some of the most covetable seats in the city. The cellar restaurant pays homage to Georgia’s beloved artist, Niko Pirosmani, renowned for his plentiful, hearty feasting scenes, appropriately plating up meals to match. The menu is long, enticing and undeniably confusing if you don’t speak Georgian, but really you can’t go too wrong with any of the dishes.
Café Stamba
A tangible celebration of Georgia’s culinary heritage, the cafe offers an avant-garde take on the country’s classic dishes and flavors alongside with modern international cuisine, making it a major player in the evolving foodie scene surfacing across the capital. Breakfast is also a global affair that is sure to become a firm fixture on Tbilisi society’s brunch circuit and, like the all-day menu, is crafted from fresh, seasonal ingredients produced in collaboration with the Georgian Farmers’ Association for assured, farm-to-table quality.
Culinarium
Serving up honest food in wholesome surroundings, Culinarium’s menu is curated by Tekuna Gachechiladze, the pioneering female chef responsible for a modernisation of Georgian cuisine that began around 2006. While everything on the menu will satisfy, we suggest choosing from a menu titled “hangover cures” featuring Georgian soups that range from traditional dumpling to a lemon-mint-tarragon chicken soup – both of which deliver on their promise.
Bina N37
Bina 37 (apartment 37) is not your typical type of restaurant. Starting from the entrance up to unique wine cellar (georgian: Marani) and a great host. It's a unique concept of a traditional restaurant located in a concrete block house in a residential area. There is no sign at the entrance. Just ring at the apartment 37.
Café Littera
Located in the leafy courtyard of Writer’s House, a century-old pile that was the former home of local aristocrat and philanthropist David Sarajishvili, Café Littera is owned by the queen of Georgian cuisine, chef Tekuna Gachechiladze. Best known for putting a lighter, modern twist on traditional Georgian dishes, don’t miss out on the chakapuli (stew) served with mussels instead of lamb, or kharcho – a traditional beef and rice soup – made alternatively with the sweetest of shrimps. This being Georgia, wines are all local, including a strong list of natural and organic options.
Café Linville
The wobbly stairs take you up to a windowed veranda, typical for Tbilisi. Three little rooms of this meticulously decorated cafe is furnished with small tables and neat tablecloths. The lights are low, cast from big, old chandeliers and music helps create a laid-back atmosphere. Definitely an artistic vintage interior. Two small balconies overlook the pedestrian traffic of Kote Abkhazi street. The menu is mixed international: pizza, pasta, steaks, sandwiches.
Retro
The best khachapuri in town! It has become one of the most emblematic dishes of Georgian cuisine and is not only found all over Tbilisi, but is also being served in New York and Washington, DC. the pie is a baked barge of supple dough packing a cargo of gooey cheese topped with a mostly raw egg and a slowly melting Snickers-sized gob of butter. It is the mother of all comfort foods, eaten with the hands by ripping off pieces of crust and dipping them into the arterially perilous fondue.
Strada Café
The ground floor of the Stamba Hotel repurposes an industrial space with a little art deco flair. The menu combines avant-garde takes on classic Georgian dishes with some international crowd-pleasers. A collaboration with the Gerogian Farmers’ Association guarantees farm-fresh seasonal produce goes into the kitchen’s creations.
Where to drink?
8000 Vintages (Wine tasting)
Georgia’s wine scene is pretty well established. Naturally produced, Georgian wine requires proper climate control and attentive care in order to serve as intended, and this inconspicuous spot takes the process seriously. The location – full disclosure: it’s a little bit out of the way – doesn’t deter tourists but don’t worry about bumping into throngs of travel-guide clutchers, the bar manages to keep the vibe authentically Georgian. Choose from a floor-to-ceiling selection of wine; you’ll be spoilt for choice no matter your taste.
Amber Bar
Named after the colour of Georgian white wine – a result of fermenting the entire grape instead of just the juice in a large egg-shaped earthenware vessel called a “qvevri” – Amber is the place to go for a varied selection of natural wines produced by small family enterprises. Choose from over 100 varieties of the white stuff – don’t leave without trying the Saperavi from Shalauri Cellars, an artisanal producer in the east of the country, or the Chinuri, made by the Gotsa family. This, paired with delicious snacks like sulguni (brined cheese) sticks fried in a crushed walnut crust, means Amber is the type of place that “just a glass” is not going to cut it. Another bottle please…
Rooms Hotel Bar
Georgia might be known for its wine production, but that doesn’t mean a great cocktail shouldn’t be on your list too. One of the fancier bars in the city, Bar Room sits within the city’s Rooms hotel and serves up delicious handcrafted classic cocktails from moscow mules to chilli margaritas. A little slice of New York in Tbilisi, this is the perfect spot for a pre-prandial drink, but make sure you arrive early to avoid the queues (especially at the weekend).
g.Vino
Modelled on Spanish tapas restaurants, g.Vino is a charming boho wine bar in the heart of Tbilisi’s old town. Serving up rare, organic and natural wines from small local producers, as well as some of the best Georgian qvevri wines, its easy to see why this bar remains a local favourite.
41 Gradus
41 Gradus is a basement bar with room for up to 25 guests, with seating at its counter as well as a few small tables and cozy nooks. While not a speakeasy per se, 41 Gradus is semi-hidden in a dark alley, located behind a closed door and down a flight of stairs, with dimly lit moody environs.
Cocktail Factory
A bar opened by three friends and professional bartenders. They invite bartenders from all over the world to provide the unique opportunity to taste drinks from different cultures.
Woland’s Speakeasy
Tbilisi's first Speakeasy. The perfect place for a traditional cocktail, local craft beer or simply to lounge and enjoy a bit of blue.
Art-Café
Art-Cafe Home is a multi-level creative space, bar and nightclub. You’ll be astonished by the eclectic décor in every room you enter. Up top you’ll find a large rooftop patio and a terrace with comfy couches. It’s like taking a walk through an artist’s brain.
Where to shop?
MORE is LOVE
For upscale but under-the-radar fashion head to More is Love. Scout out Georgian brands like Tata Naka and niche international labels including Hungary’s Nanushka at their main store just behind Rustaveli Avenue. While definitely worth a visit, if your schedule doesn’t allow it, then the online shop is just as good, if not more comprehensive. They ship worldwide.
Buyers
With a creative set who are on a mission, Tbilisi has become a hub of urban cool with boutiques and concept stores sprouting up all over the place. For a one-stop hit, head to Buyers, hidden within the upper floors of a grand European-style building. Here, you’ll find Georgian brands like cutting-edge fashion label Tatuna Nikolaishvili rubbing shoulders with artwork by the likes of Louisa Chalatashvili. No space to carry everything home? The company’s online store has plans to start the country’s e-commerce revolution.
Chaos Concept Store
The corner of Merab Kostava and Tamar Chovelidze in Tbilisi’s Vera neighbourhood is home to some of the trendiest, hotels, bars and restaurants. It makes sense then, that the city’s fashion hotspot would open here. Called CHAOS, spend the morning browsing the collection of international and emerging Georgian designers, then refuel at Café Stamba before heading on to the next.
DOTS
Probably about as Georgian as you can get, Dots is the hip and affordable brand from long-established group, Fashion House Materia. Visit their flagship store – the sartorial equivalent of a candy shop – in the centre of the old city. Selling solely Georgian lines, all the items are fully crafted in Tbilisi – a great spot to pick up a souvenir.
They Said Books
They Said Books is a conceptual bookstore based in Tbilisi. The philosophy at the heart of it is to become more than a retail space and form an integral part of cultural ethos . They Said Books focuses on exploration of art, culture, lifestyle and design: handpicking and assiduously selecting books, independent niche magazines and concept brand objects.
Pierrot le Fou
Named after the 1965 Jean-Luc Godard-directed film (French for "Pierrot the madman"), Pierrot Le Fou is a luxury multi-brand boutique catered to Tbilisi denizens with a more refined sartorial palette. Anchored by high-fashion heavyweights like Maison Margiela, Issey Miyake, Rick Owens and Simone Rocha, the store also features a fine sprinkling of unique art furnishings, from electric blue Renaissance heads and towering plant vases to circular lighting fixtures and mirrored tables.
Wasted Concept Store
Run by a group of high schoolers, Wasted Concept Store was conceived as a means to fill what its owners felt was a huge void in Tbilisi's retail landscape. Peppered with a colorful mix of thrifted finds from various flea markets around the city, the store's curation adheres to a youthful, IG-friendly audience that's attuned to current trends and fashions: think fishnet stockings, vintage Burberry, bombers and red patent leather thigh boots.
Ceramics 1300
Ceramic Studio 1300 is a women-owned studio located in Tbilisi. The studio was founded by Irina Jibuti and Taso Gomelauri and they run it from the multi-functional cultural hub Fabrika. The studio often collaborates with different artists and also holds ceramic workshops.
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