The Amalfi coast is one of the most beautiful locations in Italy. However, its dramatic cliffs and quaint windy roads don't make for the most child-friendly holiday. Throwing caution to the wind, last summer we attempted it with ours. With a bit of research and forward planning surprisingly it ended up being one of the best family holidays ever. Here I share with you some of the most coveted advice you will need when planning a trip to the coast.....
Choose Your Home Base Wisely
Yes, The Amalfi Coast is stunning and housing options - while eye wateringly pricey in summer - are unlimited. While it's tempting to want to stay in beautiful Positano or near the action in Amalfi or in culturally dense Ravello, the truth is that these towns with their steepness and narrow streets are not child friendly. The best advice I can give you is to base yourself in Sorrento and this is why:
Sorrento is served by the train and this makes it one of the easiest places to reach on the Amalfi Coast for families who do not want to drive
There are loads of shops, supermarkets and restaurants, and access to the sea (although no beach, there are safe swimming areas and boardwalks with sun loungers)
The town itself is beautiful, well served and it is a great place if you want to have option of tours in the city (take the Gourmet Girls Sorrento food tour!) and boat trips to Capri and other localities in the area
Its better priced for accommodation than other towns
There are cheaper food options
For those who wish to drive, parking is far more reasonable than the other towns
Ferries go from Sorrento to Amalfi, Positano, Naples and the islands (Capri and Ischia)
The train goes from Sorrento to Pompeii and Naples, and there are buses from Sorrento to everywhere along the Amalfi coast
We rented an Airbnb - Giuseppe's Place - which I would highly recommend.
*Unpopular Opinion Alert* Rent A Car
This is a hotly debated topic when it comes to the Amalfi Coast. We chose to rent a car - choosing a small car which you are comfortable driving is key - and yes while parking does add up this is why we were ultimately glad we chose to rent:
Firstly buses are packed, especially in the summer months, meaning that hours could go by without you getting on a bus. Standing around in the Italian summer heat, without AC - no thank you
Sometimes traffic does build up on the routes into the towns, but we would rather be stuck in our own car with snacks/music/the ability to stop for pee breaks than on a bus
Italians can be brash drivers so having autonomy of our vehicle appealed to us more than having the children in the big buses which sometimes drive at crazy speeds on the windy roads
It gives you the freedom to wake up and choose where and when you want to go - those with children will appreciate that flexibility is key when travelling with them
To avoid parking issues, we got to the towns in the morning and chose to spend the whole day there. With much to see and do this was never a problem
Rent A Private Boat To Capri
Capri is an unmissable stop on your Amalfi Coast adventures. While there are ferries available to shuttle you back and forth, the crowds and hassle is not fun with kids. Renting our own private boat meant that stopped and jumped in to swim in secret coves, got into the Blue Grotto easily and were able to enjoy the whole experience of getting to Capri rather than feeling like cattle. We rented our very authentic Gozzo (boat) via Gianni's Boats and highly recommend them.
Must-Do's On The Coast (All done with kids in tow)
We made some beautiful memories on the coast. Although many people choose this understandably as a romantic jaunt, we found that experiencing it as a family was perfect for us:
Sundowners at Le Sireneuse - with its glitterati crowd and breathtaking views of Positano one would assume that this is off the list with kids. Wrong. We found the staff to be very welcoming and kind to our children and enjoyed a magical evening of dinner and drinks at La Sponda.
The Gardens at Villa Cimbrone - hands down one of the most beautiful spots I have ever visited. The English gardens of this traditional Italian 12th-century residence were a hit with the children. Plenty of space to run around and something new to discover at every turn. Be sure to take a picture on the gorgeous balcony overlooking the sea.
Eat pastries at Pasticceria Pansa in Amalfi. Since its foundation in 1830 it is one of the most visited places on the Amalfi coast. Pasticceria Pansa still preserves the charm and atmosphere of a typical XIX century cafè, with antique furniture, large gilded mirrors and chandeliers, as well as portraits of famous people who indulged themselves sitting at the tables overlooking the square (Quasimodo, Ibsen, Wagner).
Stop for a Granita Di Limone or some fresh fruit on the streetside. The Amalfi Coast is famous for its wonderful lemons and this sugary, icy lemon ice is perfect to combat the summer heat. Equally tantalising are the succulent peaches and gigantic lemons being sold by the streetside vendors who have been there for decades.
Dine at Da Salvatore in Ravello. Da Salvatore doesn't merely rest on the laurels of its spectacular terrace views. Children and adults alike will delight in how local produce is served with creativity, flair and whimsy.
Head to Chez Black in Positano for the mermaid theme and the heart-shaped pizzas
Take a cooking class! Unfortunately, we ran out of time but there are many options across Viator
Comments